Land's End to John O'Groats on a Bike Friday Tandem


Day 20 (July 4)

Mike, Tandem, and Clouds, the Struey Dornoch Firth from the Struey
Mike, Tandem, and Clouds, on the StrueyDornoch Firth from the Struey

Our route for the day started with climbing over the Struey, which the NCN map describes as involving "a very steep climb, but rewards with magnificent views on a clear day". The climb was about 700 feet, but as the profile shows, it is actually quite gentle from south to north, after a short initial steep bit. Cycling north to south would be steeper. The day was not clear, and the low clouds curtailed the promised views, although from just past the summit there was a good view north to Dornoch Firth.

After a rapid descent the road to Bonar Bridge was flat and easy. A heavy shower before Bonar Bridge drove us into a Craft and Tea shop in the town, to have tea and scones and dry off in the warmth. We chatted with a friendly elderly woman and young child who were staying in a nearby Youth Hostel.

The rain had tapered off, so it was on to Shin Falls, where we saw one (Lynn) or two (me) Salmon jumping up over the falls, which were flowing very fast with all the recent rain. Soon after, torrential rain began to fall, and the road rapidly became more like a river. We were quite wet by the time we reached Lairg, but it didn't seem worth stopping since the rain looked likely to continue.

North of Lairg there is almost nothing for 40 miles, as the single track road (still labelled an A-road) crosses the bleak northern moors. There is one pub in the middle of nowhere - the Crask Inn - that seems mainly there for cyclists, and the tiny village of Altnaharra, with a B&B and hotel, but no shops. This latter was our destination. We had on-and-off rain as we cycled up to 800 feet to the Crask Inn. There we dried out, and had lunch of excellent spinach soup that the friendly landlord recommended.

After lunch it was 8 miles downhill to our Altnaharra bed and breakfast, where the proprietor, Mandy, immediately started spoiling us, serving us tea and biscuits in the lounge, and taking all our wet things away to the drying room. We had a lovely cosy stay there, and she provided us with a delicious evening meal of wild venison from the local hills. (There is also a deer farm in Altnaharra, right next to the hotel.)

NCN Milepost, Crask Inn The Crask Inn
NCN Milepost, Crask InnThe Crask Inn

Mileage: 52.0 miles

Route and more pictures

Elevation
Elevation Profile
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Last modified 24 July, 2007